The quiet hum of steady rain falling through the gum trees above onto the roof of our caravan, woke us about 4am. The sound of falling rain can be a soothing pleasant experience, but this was far from soothing. Rain! Our worst fear was realised! My wife and I were camped on the banks of the Murray River at Barge Bend, about 25klm north of the Stuart Hwy between Renmark SA and Mildura Vic. We jolted awake! We were in deep trouble.
We came to the area by chance the previous day. When traveling east on the Highway, about 80klm west of Mildura, we noticed several minor roads leading north to the River and decided to check them out. We traveled north along a gravel road for 14klm to a “T” junction, then east for 4 or 5klm to Mulcra Island State Forestry Park. From there the earth road became an undulating track snaking its way through wooded riverflats. And although the grey clay surface was firm and dry, the deep wheel ruts and detours around wash-aways and other damaged sections indicated it would be treacherous country in the wet. But we continued on hoping to reach better conditions. Then about 7klm further on, we came to Barge Bend – a popular camping spot on the riverbank.
It was the Sunday of the holiday long weekend in June and several groups of people were camped along the riverbank. Although it was a lovely place we decided not to stay as we worried what the track would be like if it rained. But the friendly campers assured us fine weather had been forecast for the next few days and suggested that we at least stay overnight. So we changed our mind and parked our caravan for an overnight stay under the magnificent Murray River Redgums by the River. And now steady soaking rain – our worst fear realised. Any hope we had of getting back to solid ground was evaporating. Some campers packed up immediately and left, but we considered it too dangerous in the dark and got ready to leave at first light. But when we attempted to do so we moved less than 100metres before sliding sideways off the greasy track, hopelessly bogged.
What followed became a fine example of Aussie mateship. For what could have been a frightening experience for we “not so young” travelers, became a truly “feel good” adventure.
Bill and Carol Wright (camping there from Loxton South Australia, over 100klm away) were the first to respond. They pulled our rig to higher ground with their large 4WD, assuring us the track would dry out (if the rain stopped) within 48 hours and we’d be able to leave. They insisted that we phone them as soon as we got out, so they’d know we were okay. And, despite our protest, Bill said if he didn’t hear from us within three days he’d return (from Loxton!) with recovery gear.
So the exodus of the campers began and what a job they had. Only the larger 4WD vehicles were able to handle the greasy conditions. There was about a half dozen 4WD and 2WD vehicles – each towing a boat or trailer. They worked together, connecting vehicles in tandem and transferring trailers to more capable units until the last of them had gone – leaving the track a boggy mess in their wake. And we were alone by the river – in the rain.
It was quite a predicament. We were now isolated, about 90klm from Mildura and 80klm from Renmark. Apart from Neds Corner Pastoral Station, about 10klm down-river, the nearest habitation was the Roadhouse at Lake Cullulleraine on Stuart Hwy approximately 50klms south-east. Although we had our small mobile phone, when we tried earlier it wouldn’t work and the campers told us that Barge Bend was in a non-service area. But we weren’t all that concerned. There was no immediate danger. We had ample provisions, were quite comfortable and our new friends from Loxton knew where we were. Our main concern was the possibility of a medical emergency. We both have coronary problems and I’d been going through a bit of a bumpy patch – a little worrying when you’re stranded miles from nowhere. But we tried not to worry. The rain stopped in the late afternoon, we stoked up the campfire and relaxed.
Mateship on the Murray.
Then later as we were about to retire, I made a serious blunder; a simple mistake — as it usually is. I always lock our power generator in the back of the station-wagon overnight, regardless of location. It’s a good habit. As the vehicle was already centrally locked, I unlocked the tailgate and placed the generator inside, putting the keys on the lid of the Engel freezer as I changed it over to 12v. Then wham! I closed the tailgate locking the keys inside. There they were, only centimeters away, securely locked in with most of our food and the generator. And to add to our woes the rain came down again, in bucket loads, reminding us of our predicament.
After a restless night, next morning I attracted the attention of a lone fisherman further upstream. He came down in his small boat and suggested his mates, camping further upriver – who had mechanical knowledge and tools with them – may come and try to help. Then about mid-day I stopped a passing houseboat and asked for assistance. The skipper “Bill” – from Adelaide South Australia – and his wife “Di” were traveling upstream to a gathering of houseboat enthusiasts at Echuca. But their CB radio and mobile phone were also inoperable because of our location. Bill offered to ferry me to Lock 8, about 7klm up-river, where I could use the lock’s landline phone to get assistance. He said he would later return me in the houseboat tender to Barge Bend, after I’d made my arrangements.
So although the rain was still belting down, things looked a little brighter as we headed off in the houseboat for Lock 8. The Lockmaster, Brian Kelly, let me use the telephone to contact the RACV and I gave them my details and told them of our situation. The RACV said they’d arrange for a 4WD-recovery vehicle and phone back in about an hour with an ETA. Great! Things really were looking up. But we couldn’t wait for their ETA call, as Bill and Di were waiting to continue on through the Lock, so Bill returned me to Barge Bend in the tender.
I there found my somewhat “teary” wife being consoled by three blokes from Bendigo Victoria – the fisherman’s mates camped upstream – who had tried without success to open our locked vehicle. However as we expected help from the RACV, I thanked Bill and the blokes from Bendigo for their efforts and they all went on their way. But soon after Brian Kelly, the Lockmaster turned up in his aluminum runabout with news that the RACV had phoned back to advise that as they couldn’t reach us by 2WD vehicle they would not be coming. We were back to square one. But at Brian’s suggestion I returned with him to Lock 8 and contacted a mechanic at Lake Cullulleraine, who agreed to come (as a private contractor) and unlock our vehicle. It was arranged that Brian would pick him up by boat, from the landing at Neds Corner Station 10klm further downriver, bring him to our campsite and return him later to his vehicle.
And so it was done, thanks to Brian Kelly’s wonderful kindness. And we silently blest him again as we heard his boat skimming past on the river in the darkness and pouring rain, returning to Lock 8. What a great bloke! With the vehicle unlocked and access again to our food storage and generator, we waited in relative comfort as the rain continued almost non-stop for three days. We later learnt the area received almost a third its annual rainfall in that time. Brian kept tabs on us daily. He even organised a carton of canned beer – delivered by a professional fisherman on the river, who also gave us a fish. What service! Brian also phoned Bill Wright to update him on our situation. There was no point in Bill coming all the way from Loxton SA. There was little anyone could do while the conditions remained so wet and boggy. With access also to our (CDMA technology) mobile phone, we tried again to make it work. Then Bingo! After moving about and trying several spots we connected to a network and could send and receive.
With the mobile operating we contacted the owners at Neds Corner Station, Colin and Louise Laity – we thought it best to advised them of our situation. What wonderful people they turned out to be. They came down immediately in a small 4WD, and after confirming we were okay they dragged up a pile of dry logs for our campfire. They promised to keep in touch and provide immediate help should an emergency arise. We all agreed it was really just a case of being patient and waiting until the track dried out enough to become passable.
And so we sat patiently tending our campfire, trying to catch a fish and relaxing at this beautiful place safe and secure under the watchful eye of the Laitys and the Lockmaster. Then after six days when it became obvious it would take a lot longer than expected for the track to dry out, Colin hitched his heavy 4WD station vehicle to our caravan and towed it through the mudflats to Neds Corner Station. Free of the caravan our Holden Acclaim made it out without assistance, slipping and sliding about in the greasy conditions – we wouldn’t have made it with the caravan. And soon we were relaxing over morning tea with the Laity’s, recounting the experience and expressing gratitude that complete strangers – wonderful people from different parts of Australia – had rallied to help us. People whose kindness we will always remember.
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